Audi Wheel Fitment Guide

Offset, stamped on the wheel as ET, is the distance in millimeters from the wheel's centerline to the face that bolts to the hub. A higher ET pulls the wheel into the fender and a lower ET pushes it out. Adding half an inch of width at the same offset moves the outer lip out about 6.35 mm and the inner barrel in by the same amount.

They describe where the outer edge of the wheel sits compared with the fender lip. Factory wheels usually sit 15 to 25 mm or more inside the fender (stock look). Conservative is about 10 mm inside, OEM+ flush about 5 mm inside, flush is even with the fender, and hella flush sits at or past it, which usually needs camber adjustment or fender work.

Keep the outer lip in the same place. For every half inch of extra width, raise the offset by about 6 mm (12.7 mm per inch). The guide's Same look, different width tool does this math for you, shows how much closer the wider wheel gets to the suspension, and flags anything deeper than setups owners have confirmed.

Concavity comes from the space between the hub mounting face and the outer lip. The further out the lip sits, the deeper the face can be, so flush and hella flush setups allow the most. At the same flush level a wider wheel adds no face depth; it only moves the inner barrel toward the suspension. The guide marks the verified setup with the most room at each size as Deepest face. The wheel design matters too: step-lip and deep-concave faces use that space differently, and large brake calipers limit how deep the spokes can go.

Setups marked 'No rub reported' were reported rub-free by owners at the listed ride height. Low or moderate rub risk means light contact was reported in some conditions, such as full steering lock, big dips or a loaded trunk, and the fix is listed when there is one. Tire brand, sidewall shape, alignment and ride height all change clearance, so test-fit before mounting tires.

Audi hubs measure 57.1 mm (older A3, TT, A4 B7, A6 C6, A8 D3, Q3 and R8), 66.5 mm (most Audis from about 2009 on) or 71.6 mm (4L Q7 and e-tron GT). If your wheel's center bore is larger than the hub, use hub-centric rings so the wheel centers on the hub instead of the lug bolts.

Factory Audi bolts have a ball (radius) seat. Most aftermarket wheels use a 60 degree conical seat, so they need conical bolts. When you add spacers, use bolts long enough for full thread engagement, and use hub-centric spacers.

Every verified setup is backed by a real owner report, a wheel maker's fitment listing or a factory specification. When a look has no confirmed setup at your size, the guide shows a marked estimate. Conservative and OEM+ flush estimates start from Audi's factory size and move the offset to that flush level; flush and hella flush estimates start from the closest confirmed owner setup. Either way, the wheel is narrowed if needed so the inner barrel stays within what owners have confirmed. Estimates are clearly marked and link to the setup they came from, so test-fit before mounting tires. We do not estimate hella flush setups further out than any owner has confirmed, so a few boxes stay empty. Our fitment team can help you work out a spec for your car.

Pick your year and model and the guide lists every factory wheel size for that generation, with the diameter, width, offset and tire size, plus where each one sits against the fender. The Stock look box always shows the factory size for the diameter you pick. If you want a new wheel style with the exact factory fitment, match those numbers and keep the factory tire size; Vorsprung forged wheels can be built to the exact offset. Regional options vary, so confirm against your door placard or the stamp on your wheel.

Yes. Vorsprung forged wheels are built to order in the diameter, width and offset you choose, with your choice of dish, concavity and finish. Pick a setup in the guide and send it to us, or start a build from our forged wheels collection.