Found oil pooling at the back of your supercharged V6 and want to fix it yourself instead of paying the Audi Tax? Here is how to replace oil filter housing gasket seals on the EA837 3.0T without turning a weekend job into a two-weekend job. The short version: confirm the leak, clear access, clean like a surgeon, and install a seal that will not harden in two winters, like our TruSeal oil filter housing gasket for the Audi 3.0T, molded from the OEM gasket in peroxide-cured FKM.
Not sure the housing is really the source? Start with our Audi 3.0T oil filter housing gasket guide, which covers symptoms, seal materials and when to replace the housing instead.
Before you start: confirm the leak
The 3.0T oil filter housing sits at the top rear of the engine, near the supercharger and next to a cylinder head. Oil from there runs down the back of the block, so it is easy to blame the wrong part. Degrease the area, drive until fully warm, and find the highest fresh wet spot with a flashlight. If the cap seam or a PCV hose is the real culprit, you just saved yourself an afternoon.
Parts and tools checklist
Parts
- TruSeal oil filter housing gasket (OE reference 06E115446)
- A new oil filter element and any seals that come with it
- Engine oil to top off (or a full oil change if you are due)
- Optional: aluminum oil filter housing or billet oil filter cap if yours is damaged
Tools
- Triple-square bit set for the housing fasteners
- T30 Torx for bracket screws and a 10mm socket
- Low-range torque wrench (not your suspension wrench)
- Plastic scrapers and plastic picks, never steel on aluminum
- Degreaser, lint-free rags, nitrile gloves
- Bright light and inspection mirror
- Drain pan and absorbent pads
- Labeled bags or a magnetic tray for fasteners
How to replace oil filter housing gasket seals on the 3.0T: step by step
1. Prep the car
Work on a cool engine. Remove the engine covers. Remove the oil filter cap and element so oil in the housing can drain back, and lay absorbent pads around the area to keep oil off belts and wiring.
2. Clear access
Owners who have done this job with the supercharger in place report moving the PCV hose at the valve cover, disconnecting the SAI hose at the front of the engine to gain slack, easing the wiring harness that runs under the supercharger, and unbolting the metal bracket with connectors on the cylinder head (T30 screws). Photograph everything before you unplug it. Future you will be grateful.
3. Remove the housing
Remove the triple-square bolts and the nut holding the housing. Lift it straight up and out. It is a tight fit around the stud, which is exactly why the SAI hose slack helps. Stuff a clean lint-free rag into the oil passage opening so nothing falls into the engine.
4. Clean the sealing surfaces
Old gasket material often sticks to the engine side. Remove every bit with plastic tools and solvent. Do not use abrasive discs or a steel razor on aluminum; you want clean and flat, not polished and grooved. Wipe dry, then pull the rag out carefully.
5. Inspect the housing
Check the flange for warping, cracks around the bolt bosses, damaged cap threads and heat discoloration. Any of those means the housing goes in the trash and a new one goes on the car. A fresh gasket on a warped flange is just a slower leak.
6. Install the new gasket and housing
Compare the new seal to the old one first. Seat the gasket fully in its locating features, dry unless the manual says otherwise, and lightly oil any O-rings so they cannot roll. Set the housing in place, start every fastener by hand, snug them evenly in a crisscross pattern, then torque to the value in the repair manual for your engine code.
7. Reassemble and verify
Reinstall the bracket, harness, SAI hose and PCV hose. A forgotten vacuum connection will give you a check engine light and a lean idle. Install a new filter element, tighten the cap to the value molded on it if it has one, top off oil, and start the engine. Inspect for leaks at idle, then again after a full warm-up and after a few cold starts.
Choose your repair path
Gasket only is right when the housing is healthy. A replacement housing is right when the plastic is the problem. A spin-on conversion is for owners who want to retire the cartridge system entirely.
| TruSeal gasket only | Aluminum housing + TruSeal | Spin-on housing conversion | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Best for | Healthy housing, first leak | Warped or cracked housing, repeat leaks | Retiring the cartridge filter and plastic cap |
| Price | $14.99 | $44.99 (gasket included) | $224.99 (pre-order, October) |
| Filter | Factory cartridge | Factory cartridge | Spin-on (Hengst H14W30 or Audi 06J115403Q) |
| Labor | Same access either way | Same access either way | Same access either way |
Shop the TruSeal Oil Gasket Upgrade, from $14.99
✅ Seals molded from OEM gaskets ✅ Fitment help from real 3.0T owners ✅ Fast US shipping
Parts worth adding while you are in there
- ✅ Oil Filter Housing, 3.0 EA837: gravity-cast aluminum with a 6061 billet cap and TruSeal gasket included
- ✅ EA837 Oil Filter Housing Conversion: CNC 6061 housing, spin-on filter, fresh anti-drain back valve every oil change
- ✅ Billet Oil Filter Cap: replaces the plastic cap (06E115433 reference) and keeps the factory element
- ✅ TruSeal kit variants for the PCV breather tubes and intake manifold seals if the supercharger is off
If the supercharger is coming off for a thermostat, PCV or porting job, do this reseal in the same window. Our under supercharger kits bundle the usual valley parts, and our Audi PCV valve guide explains why crankcase pressure matters to every oil seal on this engine.
Fitment
This walkthrough applies to the supercharged EA837 3.0T in the B8/B8.5 S4, S5, Q5 and SQ5, the C7/C7.5 A6 and A7, the D4 A8 and the 4L/4M Q7. The TruSeal gasket, aluminum housing and billet cap are listed across that platform. The conversion lists 2009-2017 B8/B8.5, 2009-2015 C6/C7 A6, 2012-2015 A7, 2011-2013 A8 and 2010-2015 Q7; CREC owners should confirm fitment with us first. The EA839 twin-turbo is a different engine and is not covered.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Reusing the old gasket because it looks fine. It is hard, not fine.
- Scraping aluminum with steel and cutting a leak path into the sealing face
- Letting debris fall into the open oil passage
- Overtightening fasteners into a plastic housing
- Forgetting the SAI or PCV hose and chasing a lean code for a week
How to replace oil filter housing gasket: FAQ
How long does it take to replace the oil filter housing gasket on an Audi 3.0T?
Plan on roughly 2 to 4 hours for a first DIY attempt with basic hand tools, and less if the supercharger is already off for other work. Most of that time is access and cleaning, not the gasket itself. This is an estimate, not a factory labor time.
Can I replace the oil filter housing gasket without removing the supercharger?
Yes. Owners following the factory procedure report the supercharger can stay on. You will still need to move covers, a PCV hose, an SAI hose, part of the wiring harness and a bracket on the cylinder head to get the housing out.
What tools do I need to replace the oil filter housing gasket?
Triple-square bits, a T30 Torx, a 10mm socket, a low-range torque wrench, plastic scrapers, degreaser, lint-free rags, a bright light and a drain pan or absorbent pads.
Should I use RTV sealant on the oil filter housing gasket?
No, not unless the repair manual for your engine calls for it. The gasket is designed to seal on its own against clean, flat surfaces. Sealant squeeze-out can end up in oil passages.
Is it worth replacing the housing while I am in there?
If the plastic housing is warped, cracked, or the cap leaks, yes. Access is the expensive part of this job, so replacing a tired housing now avoids doing the job twice.
What torque should I use on the oil filter housing bolts?
Use the value in the repair manual for your exact engine code and tighten in even steps in a crisscross pattern. We do not publish a number here because we will not guess at a spec on a pressurized oil joint.
How do I know the new oil filter housing gasket is sealing?
Degrease the area before startup, run the engine to full temperature, then inspect from the top down. Recheck after a few heat cycles and a cold start. A dry joint a week later means the job is done.
Is this how to replace oil filter housing gasket on other Audi engines too?
The cleaning, inspection and reassembly principles carry over, but access and parts differ. This walkthrough is written for the supercharged EA837 3.0T.
Bottom line
Knowing how to replace oil filter housing gasket seals on a 3.0T is mostly about patience: confirm the source, clear access, clean without gouging, and torque to the manual. Put a seal in there that will not harden next winter, starting with the TruSeal oil filter housing gasket upgrade, and upgrade the housing if yours has already given up.
Shop the TruSeal Oil Gasket Upgrade, from $14.99
Drive the difference. Drive Vorsprung.
Prices checked September 25, 2026 and subject to change.
